This stew is North African for two reasons: One, it is loosely based off a recipe found from Tunisia in a great book called the Mediterranean Feast. Two, it has harissa, which is a North African chile paste that is as flavorful as it is hot.

But there are some other keys here, too. A pinch of crushed juniper berries. Some lovage herb (you could use celery leaves). Lots of bay leaves. Real venison stock, although beef stock would be a pretty good substitute. Oh yeah, and the potatoes. Fingerlings if at all possible. You could use Yukon Gold, but the fingerlings just seem, well, right for this dish.

One more thing: Give this stew the slow and low treatment. Crock-pot even, although I do not use one. Take your time and you will be rewarded.

Serves 8-10

* 2 pounds venison stew meat (or any other red-meat critter)
* Salt
* 1/4 cup olive oil
* 1 quart venison or beef stock
* 2 tablespoons tomato paste
* 1/2 large onion, grated
* 1/2 large onion, coarsely chopped
* 10 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped
* 2 green peppers (poblanos would be perfect) coarsely chopped
* 1-2 pounds fingerling or Yukon Gold potatoes
* 3 tablespoons chopped lovage or celery leaves
* 4 bay leaves
* 2 tablespoons harissa or ground chiles
* 1 teaspoon crushed juniper berries

1. Heat the olive oil in a Dutch oven or other large pot with a lid. Brown the stew meat — I like 2-inch chunks — on all sides over medium-high heat. Do this in batches and take your time. Really. It matters. Set aside the browned venison while you do the rest.
2. Heat the oven to 325 degrees.
3. When the meat is all browned, return it to the pot and add the grated onion — this will deglaze the pot. Stir it around until no browned bits are left in the pot.
4. Add the tomato paste, venison stock, bay leaves and juniper berries, bring to a simmer, cover and put into the oven for an hour.
5. After an hour, add the chopped onion, chopped garlic and the lovage. Return to the oven for another hour.
6. At the two-hour mark, turn the heat down to 300 degrees and add the potatoes, green peppers and harissa. Check for salt and add some if needed.
7. Cook for another 45 minutes to an hour. Remove from oven and let cool, while still covered, for 15 minutes. Serve with crusty bread and a lusty wine. I’d recommend something like an Amarone, or a Rioja Reserva. Or Chateauneuf du Pape. You get the idea.